Oman continued

My last days in Oman were very enjoyable; I should have stayed longer because I ended up spending two nights in Chicago because of the blizzard. I was at a nice hotel, however, and watched a lot of TV with videos of the blizzard and the Egyptian demonstrations.

Muscat Festival, a fair, takes place during the month of January every year in a very large park. I went with my host, Khaled, in the evening, but I got the tickets in the "ladies only" line because it was the shortest, even though there was only one line for ladies and several for men. There were lots of colored lights, fair food, and entertainment, but it was not crowded, probably because it was a weeknight. Mostly young men were with their friends and having a good time. There were information booths about cars and communications. The part I enjoyed the most was the "traditional village" where cultural activities and traditional crafts were being demonstrated. We watched sweet halwa being made, primarily sugar and cornstarch with flavorings. It boils and is constantly stirred in a huge vat for a long time as it turns dark brown, very sweet, but quite good in small quantities. We watched weavers making rugs and baskets; there were dancers and drummers beating rhythms reminiscent of Africa. Later we watched a parade with an "under-the-sea" theme with floats and dancing people all lit up with colored lights. It was fun.

After the festival, we went to the lit up LuLu Supermarket that looks like Christmas all the time. It was packed. Again we went to the shortest check out line, " ladies only." The packer used an endless number of plastic bags for our purchases. Everything is available in the supermarkets.

My last two days were spent in the desert where the sand dunes were high and lovely with undulating sand. We drove for about two hours through barren mountains where there are numerous watchtowers and past the town of Ibra, then we were taken inland in a 4WD vehicle where suddenly it became sandy and the dunes began. One could see Bedouin people living in small huts. Many still move three to four times a year to find food for their goats. The luxury desert camp where we stayed was lovely with permanent "tents." We were taken to the top of a dune to watch the sunset, and we also got a short camel ride in the camp. We had the opportunity to go "dune bashing" which I figured I needed to try - roaring up and down and sideways on the dunes in a 4WD vehicle with sand flying over the windshield. It was exciting and the young driver was obviously having a ball too. Another day I had gone "wadi bashing." We drove into the water and then up the dry riverbed. A wadi is a valley or dry riverbed and in Oman there are numerous wadis, some very famous and beautiful. It's where people established villages because sometimes there is water.

I was asked to compare and contrast the countries I visited. I will, but I must emphasize that they are my impressions and may not be completely accurate. They're based on observations and discussions with my hosts and others.

Kuwait, Qatar, and Oman are all very modern, clean, and safe countries. All have wonderful highways which have beautifully landscaped roundabouts with petunias, grass, trees, and sculptures in the middle. Most people drive SUVs; they speed and have little regard for traffic laws. Many figure they'll just pay the fines. Gas is cheaper than water.

Kuwait, I understand, is the most conservative, and no alcohol can be purchased there. All three countries have mosques everywhere and one hears the call to worship five times a day; people are religious. Both Kuwait and Qatar are very rich countries; people are spoiled and depend on foreign or expatriate labor, while many Omanis are hard workers and participate in most jobs. Shopping is a favorite activity in all three countries. Women are well-educated. They all wear black abayas that cover themselves completely when out in public. Many abayas, especially in Qatar, are stylish and elegantly decorated with embroidery, sparkling sequins, and glass jewels. Many women wear veils with only slits for the eyes. Under the abayas, women wear stylish clothes. In the Omani country-side, one sees women wearing brightly colored tunics and pants because previously this was the traditional dress for women.

Doha, Qatar is the most modern and beautiful city, and the Museum of Islamic Art there is very special. Oman is the most historical country with old buildings and forts. Kuwait has a few old buildings from the 60's, and the American Mission hospital from 1912. All have nice boardwalks (corniches) next to the Gulf. Traditional Islamic architecture with Arabesque, repeating geometric designs, is maintained in many new buildings. Impressive new homes and ritzy shopping centers are under construction in all three countries. Qatar is building big impressive structures - a medical research center, a convention center, and stadiums. In Kuwait the buildings are the most colorful.

Food is delicious in all three countries, especially typical Middle Eastern food. Fish is good and the supermarkets have many varieties. Rice is the staple, but there are also many delicious flat breads, especially when served warm. There are an impressive number of dates because there are so many date palms.

Omanis seem to be the most laid back, relaxed, and the least arrogant, although Kuwaitis and Qataris are also friendly. Friends have had spontaneous invitations from strangers for coffee and meals. In Qatar, we were invited into the VIP section for the horse races. They are all very accustomed to foreigners so no one looks twice as long as one is modestly dressed.

I especially recommend Oman as a destination. Oman is the biggest country and geographically the most diverse. The south, where I didn't go, is tropical. It is historically very interesting with forts and castles, and there are markets with a variety of crafts. It is expensive being a tourist, however, and there are no group tours.

The Arabian Peninsula was a great place to be in January and as I traveled south, it got warmer. In all three places there were swimming pools in the "compounds" where my friends lived. I felt very comfortable and very safe in each country, and most people spoke English. I was very lucky to have had such knowledgeable hosts who were most generous and helpful.