Iceland continued

Landmannalaugar

Beth, Darlene, Jim, Anne
Westman Islands
Puffins

I’m back home and at the cabin enjoying the tall beautiful trees here. It’s cool and rainy and in the low 60’s, so I almost feel like I’m still in Iceland. There are planted trees in Iceland that don’t grow very tall, probably because of the rocky volcanic soil. Once there were trees, but they were cut down for building and firewood; over grazing and erosion have caused the hillsides to have mostly moss and grass, and of course the purple lupin. There are, however, three indigenous bushes: birch, willow, and rowan.

After being in Reykjavik a few days after our trip to the north, Anne’s high school friend, Beth, arrived and we took a five-day trip to the south. We spent two days on the Vestmannaeyjar (Westman) Islands, staying at a guesthouse, and then two days at a farm near Vik. We took the ferry to the Islands and met up with Silla, an Icelandic friend of friends. Silla was most gracious, and after coffee and cake at her house, drove us all around the island and told us many stories. It’s a fascinating place, and is the island of puffins, but this year for the first year there were hardly any eggs. The fish they eat is not available, maybe because of global warming and because a Norwegian fish is eating the fish that the puffins usually eat. 

The Volcano Eldfell erupted in 1973, burying 400 homes, some of which are now being excavated. Everyone was evacuated, but the harbor changed making it more protected, and it added 2.5 km to the island. We drove up to the crater of the volcano and later hiked to the top where we had splendid views of the island and the other islands in the archipelago. It’s amazing to see all the volcanic rock and lava flow. It’s a lovely island with green cliffs where birds nest and sheep graze. We hiked up another very steep slope and saw puffins close up which was very exciting. We also took a boat trip around the island and saw many birds on the ledges and in the water. There are caves where the islanders hid from Algerian pirates in 1627. 242 people were taken prisoner and sold as slaves in Algeria. Later 27 people managed to return to Iceland. We also were in the bay where Keiko (Free Willy) was cared for and reintroduced into the wild for several years in the late 90’s.

I had decided that I wanted to see the icebergs on Lake Jokulsarlon in southern Iceland. The morning we decided to drive there, however, there had been a flash flood that washed out a 130-meter bridge caused by water accumulating under a glacier, and then suddenly breaking loose. We decided to visit another area, Landmannalaugar. We drove up into the mountains on loose gravel roads and passed near the impressive snow-covered Volcano Hekla which has been puffing recently. We passed a road with the sign “location” and where a security guard was making sure we wouldn’t venture.

We drove through mars-like landscape with black sand and rock with absolutely no vegetation, then later moss-covered black volcanic rock. In the distance there were green mossy mountains with dirty snow melting down in gullies in unusual shapes. It was amazing scenery. There were several streams that we drove through. Eventually we came to our destination. We hiked for a couple of hours, again with volcanic rock, some shiny black, and up a mountainside, where steam was coming out of the ground in various places, and then next to a mountain river. What makes this area so amazing are the multicolored mountains: yellows, reds, pinks, tans, and even greens. Eventually we returned to the meadow where the campsite and natural hot springs are. Beth and I sat in the stream where the hot water and cool water mix.

We returned on the same road and passed the “location” again. This time a dozen or more big white vans passed rapidly with signs in the window, sound, lighting, stunts, etc. We knew we were near a movie set, but no one would give us any information. Since then, we found out that the movie is Prometheus by English director Ridley Scott and the actress is South African, Charlize Theron. 
 

The farm stay turned out to be much better than expected because we were upgraded from a triple room to a spacious cottage. We went horseback riding on the farm and down to the beach. It was a great ride, because of the unusual smooth gait of the small Icelandic horses. On our way back to Reykjavik, we met up with Jim and the professors and students that are working on the stream research project, at a restaurant where delicious crayfish is served. 

My last day we went to the Blue Lagoon on the way to the airport. It’s a huge luxurious mineral bath and spa area with steam rising from the iridescent aqua water. We were there for several hours soaking in the warm water – a perfect thing to do before getting on a plane for a 6-hour flight.

It never got very warm, but when the sun is out, the Icelanders strip down to tank tops. We kept on our “uniforms,” as Anne put it. I wore 3 - 4 layers and she wore her Icelandic sweater. By the time I left the sun was setting at 11:30, a half hour earlier than when I had arrived in mid June. It was still very light all night long, though. The yogurt-like flavored cheese, skyr, was always a delicious treat. We also enjoyed the chocolate-covered licorice. Jim prepared delicious meals, pizza, quiche, lasagna, and juevos rancheros with homemade corn tortillas. My last night, he made halibut with a rich leek and mushroom sauce. I had a wonderful time in Iceland mostly of course because of Anne and Jim.